Edward A. Lyon, JD
TaxTuneup.com, Inc.
3416 Shaw Ave #5
Cincinnati OH 45208
513.321.2821
elyon@taxtuneup.com
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Illegal Income
Illegal income is taxable as
ordinary income. The IRS doesn't care how you make it. They just want their
share. And requiring you to pay tax on it gives the government another way
to catch you if you don't. Remember who finally nailed Al Capone!
The good news is, you can
deduct most business expenses directly related to illegal income (except
for illegal expenses or expenses "contrary to public policy," such as
prostitutes for clients or the costs of rubbing out "Tony the Tuna"). If
you're a bookie, for example, you can deduct the cost of phone lines you
install to take bets.
Immediate Annuity
(See Annuity)
Incentive Stock Option
(See Stock Options)
Index
Funds
Index funds are a category of mutual
funds that aim to passively track a particular index, such as the S&P 500 or
the Russell 2000. The largest funds do it by buying every security tracked
in the index. Smaller funds do it by buying a representative sample, or by
buying options on the index. Index funds have exploded in recent years, with
more than 200 index funds tracking large-cap, mid-cap and small-cap indexes,
foreign indexes, and fixed-income indexes. There's even a fund that purports
to track an index of "tombstone" stocks: funeral homes, cemeteries, and
casket makers.
Index funds offer these
advantages over their actively managed competitors:
-
Index funds deliver
consistently superior returns. Critics accuse them of guaranteeing
mediocrity. But, considering that index funds beat the majority of their
actively-managed rivals, indexing is actually more like guaranteeing par.
Index proponents aren't likely to score the knockout punch proving
indexing unbeatable. But the evidence suggests that in taxable accounts,
the rewards of trying to beat the index just aren't worth the cost.
-
Index funds are cheap. Since
they don't actively try to beat the market, they don't pay the costs of
trying: manager's fees, research, and trading costs. Index funds as a
group have the lowest expense ratios in the business. The average stock
fund, for example, costs 1.47% per year. The average index fund costs just
0.62%, with some funds ranging below 0.20%. That means the average
actively managed fund has to beat the average index fund by 0.85% just to
break even before paying extra taxes.
-
Index funds are the most
reliable way to implement asset allocation choices. They don't hold large
cash reserves, so performance isn't diluted. And they don't make big bets
outside their published objectives. For example, in the spring of 1997,
Fidelity Magellan's Jeffrey Vinik, fearing a stock market downturn, made
large bets on bonds. He was wrong--and he lost billions for investors who
thought they were buying stocks.
True index funds--those that
buy the entire index, and hold it--enjoy a huge tax advantage over
actively managed funds. Low turnover means low realized
Capital Gains, therefore,
low taxable gains. Each time an active fund manager sells a stock at a
profit, she generates a capital gain to be distributed and taxed to
shareholders. Index funds sell only when necessary to redeem exiting
shares or when the index itself changes. Index funds can also hold less
cash than active funds since index investors redeem their shares less
often. In fact, many index funds limit transfers just to hold down this
sort of expensive turnover.
Some index funds don't
actually buy their underlying index. Instead, they buy a representative
sample to track it. Some funds may use options or futures to track the
index or even beat it. These options and futures generate short-term
gains--and lots of them. They don't give you the tax advantages of true
index funds. So, be careful when you index. Hold true index funds in
taxable accounts. Buy proxy index funds, enhanced index funds, and
leveraged funds in your IRA or retirement accounts.
Be especially careful before
you buy "leveraged" index funds. These are funds that use options or
futures to return a multiple of the index's return each day. For example,
a leveraged fund might aim to earn 150% of the S&P 500's daily return.
This leverage can be a double-edged sword. In down markets, the funds
fall faster than the index. This means your future gains build back
from a lower base. University of Chicago professor Richard Polson has
calculated that leveraged funds can lag their index and even lose money
when the index rises.
The S&P 500 includes over 70%
of the U.S. stock market, by market capitalization. But it's far from the
only index available:
-
You can track growth and value
indexes for large-cap, mid-cap, and small-cap stocks. Growth indexes are
more efficient because of lower dividends, but also more volatile. This
makes sense considering the underlying characteristics of growth and value
stocks themselves.
-
You can track smaller stocks
with the Russell 1000 (the largest 1000 companies by market
capitalization), the Russell 2000 (the next-largest 2000 stocks by market
capitalization, often used as a proxy for small stocks), the Wilshire 4500
(the entire U.S. stock market minus the 500 largest companies), and
the Wilshire 5000 (the entire U.S. market). You can also track small-cap
growth and small-cap value indexes. Some advisors believe indexing is less
effective with small stocks because this market is less efficient and
there is more room for an active manager to add value. These indexes also
have more substitutions, which boosts turnover and realized capital gains.
But the evidence suggests that indexing these markets still adds value by
cutting costs and reducing turnover.
-
International investors can
track over two dozen developed-market, emerging-market, and individual
country indexes.
-
You can even track indexes for
real estate, socially-conscious stocks, and
Commodities.
Finally, buying index funds
and holding them for long-term returns lets you sleep late and ignore the
hype of mutual funds marketing. Magazine covers tout "Hot Funds to Buy
Now"; market gurus fill newsletters and airwaves with tips. The hype
implies that the key to making money is picking the right horse. But as
we've seen, most active portfolio management falls short of its promise.
Buying an index fund lets you bet on every horse.
Individual Retirement Account
Individual retirement accounts,
or IRAs, are tax-deferred retirement savings accounts. There are several
different types of IRAs, including ordinary deductible IRAs,
Nondeductible IRAs, Spousal IRAs, and
Roth IRAs.
Ordinary IRAs, the most common
type, let you deduct your contribution (subject to certain qualifications)
and compound your earnings tax-deferred for retirement:
-
You can contribute 100% of
your earned income up to $5,000 (2008). If you're age 50 or older, you can
make an additional $1,000 "catchup" contribution.
-
If you don't actively
participate in an employer retirement plan, you can deduct your
contribution as an adjustment to income regardless of how much you make.
If you do participate in an employer retirement plan, you can deduct your
contribution if your adjusted gross income falls within these limits:
-
You have to deposit cash. You
can't transfer securities from another account.
-
You can put almost any
investment in an IRA: bank deposits, stocks, bonds, mutual funds, real
estate, mortgages and other loans, private placements, even limited
partnerships. About the only things you can't buy are most collectibles
(rugs, wine, stamps, etc.), and certain options and futures investments.
-
It pays to contribute early.
You can put your money in as early as January 1 or as late as April 15 of
the following year. If you contribute on January 1 and earn a steady 10.5%
return, your contribution will already be worth $2,276 by the April 15
deadline.
-
If you withdraw money before
age 59½ you'll owe ordinary income tax plus a 10% penalty tax on
withdrawals. See below for exceptions to this rule.
-
Once you reach age 59½ you can
withdraw money as ordinary income. Your trustee will report your
withdrawals on Form 1099-R. The entire withdrawal is taxed as ordinary
income, unless you've made nondeductible contributions (see below).
-
You have to start taking money
out by April 1 of the year after you reach age 70½.
-
IRA sponsors report
contributions to the IRS, so if you fail to make your contribution by the
April 15 deadline, don't just take the deduction and hope for the best.
IRS computers can cross-check your return against contributions to verify
the deduction.
Spousal IRA
A spousal IRA is an ordinary
IRAs for a nonworking spouse. The contribution limit is the same $5,000 as
for ordinary IRAs. Your combined income, minus the working spouse's own
IRA, has to be enough to cover the nonworking spouse contribution.
If the working spouse doesn't
actively participate in an employer retirement plan, the nonworking spouse
can contribute $5,000 regardless of your income. If the working spouse
does participate in an employer retirement plan, the nonworking spouse can
contribute so long as your adjusted gross income is $150,000 or less.
Otherwise, the rules are the same as with ordinary IRAs. Penalties on Early Withdrawals
IRAs are intended as long-term
retirement accounts, not merely tax-deferred savings accounts, so the IRS
imposes a 10% penalty on most withdrawals before age 59½. Here are the
exceptions:
-
There's no penalty for
withdrawals due to death or disability.
-
There's no penalty to withdraw
money from a regular IRA (but not a Roth IRA) to pay for unreimbursed
Medical Expenses (up to
the amount allowed as a medical expense deduction).
-
There's no penalty for
withdrawals of up to $10,000 (lifetime maximum) used within 120 days of
the withdrawal for qualified acquisition costs of a "first-time
homebuyer." To qualify, neither you nor your spouse may have owned a
primary residence for two years before the withdrawal.
-
There's no penalty to withdraw
money for higher education expenses (including tuition, room and board,
fees, books, supplies, supplies, and required equipment).
-
There's no penalty to withdraw
money if you're retired and over age 55.
-
There's no penalty or tax to
transfer money to a divorcing spouse under a qualified domestic relation
order.
-
You can take money from your
IRA and deposit it in a different IRA within 60 days. The redeposit
qualifies as a rollover and there will be no tax due at all. You can use
this strategy once within a 12-month period.
If you need to withdraw funds
from a regular IRA (but not a Roth IRA), code section 72(t) lets you avoid
the 10% penalty if you "annuitize," or take the funds in a series of
substantially equal payments over your life expectancy. You'll owe
ordinary tax on each withdrawal, but you'll avoid the 10% penalty. You'll
also have to keep withdrawing funds for five years or until you reach age
59½, whichever is longer. The IRS has identified three safe harbor
methods for calculating withdrawals:
-
The "life expectancy" method
lets you divide the balance of your IRA account by your life expectancy
(or the joint and last survivor expectancy of you and your designated
beneficiary) as shown in IRS Table VI. You can recalculate this amount
each year, or simply reduce your life expectancy by one for each year you
make withdrawals. This method yields the smallest annual payment because
it doesn't consider future earnings in the account.
Example:
You are a 50-year-old man and your IRA balance is $100,000. IRS Table VI
shows your life expectancy as 33.1 years. You may withdraw $3,021 without
penalty.
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The "amortization" method lets
you amortize your IRA like a mortgage (using your single life expectancy
or the joint and last survivor life expectancy of you and your designated
beneficiary) and a reasonable long-term interest rate. This method yields
larger withdrawals because it lets you withdraw anticipated future
earnings as well as your current principal. The IRS suggests that a
reasonable rate is 120% of the "federal midterm rate," which is a figure
the Treasury publishes monthly to value gifts and annuities. You could
also use a local bank's rate for long-term fixed-rate mortgages. You can
even include an annual inflation factor to increase withdrawals each year.
Example:
You're a 50-year-old man, your IRA balance is $100,000, and you set an 8%
interest rate for amortization. $100,000 amortized at 8% for 33.1 years
yields $8,679 per year. You may withdraw $8,679 without penalty.
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Finally, the "annuity factor"
method lets you amortize your account balance as with the amortization
method, above, but with insurance company mortality tables. These tables
generally project shorter life expectancies, which let you withdraw more
per year.
You can take your withdrawals
any time throughout the year so long as your annual total satisfies the
requirements. Your IRA custodian will send you a Form 1099-R describing
the withdrawal as an "early distribution, no known exception." In this
case, you'll have to file
Form 5329 with
your return to avoid the 10% penalty.
Section 72(t) can be a useful
escape hatch. But, if you start taking withdrawals according to plan,
you're locked in! If you deviate from schedule, you'll lose your safe
harbor, triggering the 10% penalty plus interest on all your withdrawals.
This is true even if you make an extra penalty-free withdrawal. For
example, you can't start withdrawals under Section 72(t), then take extra
money for college tuition or medical expenses. The only exceptions are
death, disability, and perhaps divorce. (The IRS has ruled privately that
an individual taking withdrawals under 72(t) could transfer part of the
account to a divorcing spouse with a
Qualified Domestic Relations Order;
however, the IRS did not explicitly state that the individual could
continue withdrawals according to the smaller account balance.) So be
careful before you start down this road; no detours are allowed.
Minimum Required Distributions
Since IRAs are intended as
retirement savings plans, not wealth-transfer vehicles, you have to start
taking money out of your ordinary IRA, nondeductible IRA, or spousal IRA
by April 1 of the year after you reach age 70½, the "required beginning
date." This led to a some of the tax code's most Byzantine rules.
Previously, you were required to choose a beneficiary and a distribution
schedule by age 70½ -- and once you made your choice, you were locked in.
Those rules are gone! On January 11, 2001, the IRS issued new proposed
regulations, effective retroactively to January 1, 2001, that let you
create a stretchout IRA with virtually no advance planning. If you blew
your chance under the old rules, you get another crack under the new. The
new regulations outline a simplified set of rules and a uniform life
expectancy table that let you withdraw less than under most previous
methods.
Of course, there's a catch. It
used to be that you calculated your own minimum required distribution and
reported it yourself. Now, your IRA custodian or qualified plan
administrator can calculate your minimum required distribution for you --
and helpfully report that amount to the IRS. This lets the IRS cross-check
your return with your plan sponsor's report. just as they do with interest
and dividend income reported on Form 1099.
To calculate your minimum
required distribution, simply divide your account balance by your
distribution period determined according to your age. If you have more
than one IRA, you have to calculate a required minimum distribution for
each separate account. However, you can withdraw the required total from a
single account.
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Uniform Life Expectancy Table
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|
Age |
Period |
Age |
Period |
Age |
Period |
|
70 |
26.2 |
86 |
13.1 |
102 |
5.0 |
|
71 |
25.3 |
87 |
12.4 |
103 |
4.7 |
|
72 |
24.4 |
88 |
11.8 |
104 |
4.4 |
|
73 |
23.5 |
89 |
11.1 |
105 |
4.1 |
|
74 |
22.7 |
90 |
10.5 |
106 |
3.8 |
|
75 |
21.8 |
91 |
9.9 |
107 |
3.6 |
|
76 |
20.9 |
92 |
9.4 |
108 |
3.3 |
|
77 |
20.1 |
93 |
8.8 |
109 |
3.1 |
|
78 |
19.2 |
94 |
8.3 |
110 |
2.8 |
|
79 |
18.4 |
95 |
7.8 |
11 |
2.6 |
|
80 |
17.6 |
96 |
7.3 |
112 |
2.4 |
|
81 |
16.8 |
97 |
6.9 |
113 |
2.2 |
|
82 |
16.0 |
98 |
6.5 |
114 |
2.0 |
|
83 |
15.3 |
99 |
6.1 |
115+ |
1.8 |
|
84 |
14.5 |
100 |
5.7 |
|
|
|
85 |
13.8 |
101 |
5.3 |
|
|
You have to take your first
distribution by April 1 of the year after the year in which you reach age
70½. That distribution counts for the calendar year in which you reach age
70½. You must take your next distribution by December 31 of the same year.
That second distribution is based on the same December 31 account balance,
minus the amount of your first distribution. This will raise your adjusted
gross income for figuring your deductions and credits, and may bump you
into a higher tax bracket. If this will be the case, consider taking your
required minimum distribution in the actual year in which you reach age
70?, rather than waiting until the required beginning date.
Example:
Husband reaches age 70? on August 1, 1998, and rings out the old year with
$100,000 in his IRA. Husband's distribution period at age 70 is 26.2
years. Husband must withdraw 1/26.2 of his December 31, 1998 account
balance, or $3,817, by April 1, 1999. His December 31, 1999 withdrawal
will be based on a $96,183 account balance.
If your spouse is your
beneficiary, and your spouse is more than 10 years younger than you, you
can withdraw funds over your joint life expectancy as presented in IRS
Table V. The process works the same as above, except that you use your
joint life expectancy to figure your withdrawals.
IRAs at Death
When you die, your IRA passes
to your designated beneficiary without passing through probate (unless you
designate your estate as your beneficiary). After your death, the
distribution period is based on the remaining life expectancy of your
designated beneficiary. This is calculated using the age of the
beneficiary in the year following the year of your death, minus one for
each subsequent year.
-
If your spouse is your sole
beneficiary at the end of the year following the year of death, the
distribution period during your spouse's life is his or her single life
expectancy. For years after the year of your spouse's death, the
distribution period is your spouse's life expectancy calculated in the
year of death, reduced by one for each subsequent year.
-
If you have more than one
designated beneficiary -- such as happens when you leave your IRA to your
children -- the distribution period is based on the beneficiary with the
shortest life expectancy.
-
If there is no designated
beneficiary at of the end of the year after your death, the distribution
period is five years.
You can designate a trust as
your IRA beneficiary without blowing up the account. It's usually done to
take advantage of the full unified credit exemption equivalent ($2,000,000
in 2008) in estates consisting largely of an IRA (by leaving the IRA to
the marital deduction bypass trust). You can designate an irrevocable
trust as beneficiary if it meets these five requirements:
-
It can have only people as
beneficiaries, not corporations, estates, other trusts, or charities.
You can also name a living
trust as a beneficiary so long as the trust becomes irrevocable at your
death. If you name a trust as your IRA beneficiary, the distribution
period will be based on the life expectancies of the underlying trust
beneficiary or beneficiaries.
You can leave part of your
account to charity. If you do so, be sure to split your IRA assets into
separate accounts so that you can take advantage of the new stretchout
provisions with the part you plan to leave to your family.
For more information on IRAs
in general, see
IRS
Publication 590, "Individual Retirement Arrangements."
Inheritance
Inheritances you receive
are nontaxable income. However, 13 states impose an inheritance tax on the
amount that you receive. This is a separate tax that doesn't affect federal
or state income taxes.
Installment Sale
Installment sales
let you defer tax on Capital
Gains until you actually receive the installments. Tax is
divided among the actual installments and due as you receive them. No
payment is necessary the year of the actual sale; you have to receive at
least one payment in a year after the year of the sale. Installment sales
are especially good for "big ticket" sales like businesses and real estate.
The installment sale concept
is simple. First, figure your gain on the sale. Next, figure what percent
of your total sale price consists of gain. Finally, multiply each
installment by your profit percentage to figure taxable gain from that
installment. For example, if you buy a building for $600,000, then sell it
for $1 million, 40% of your sale price is gain, so 40% of each installment
is taxed as capital gain. Here are some rules:
-
You have to charge interest on
future installments or a portion of each installment will be treated as
interest, taxed as ordinary rates, rather than capital gain. The minimum
rate you have to charge is the "applicable federal rate," (published
monthly by the Treasury) or 9%, compounded semiannually, whichever is
less. Interest you earn on unpaid installments is taxed as ordinary
income.
-
If you sell a property on
which you've claimed Depreciation, the entire depreciation is "recaptured"
the year of the sale. Recapture is taxed as ordinary income, except for
real property, which is taxed at no more than 25%.
-
You can't make an installment
sale of depreciable property to a business you control or a to trust with
you or your spouse as a beneficiary.
-
If you sell property with no
fixed price--as with an "earnout" sale of a business or rental property
for a fixed percentage of sales or rent--divide the property's basis into
the term of the installments, then pay tax on any gain above that amount.
(If the total of installment payments owed to you in any year tops $5
million, you'll owe interest at the federal underpayment rate on the
balance exceeding $5 million. We should all have this problem.)
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If your buyer assumes a
mortgage, subtract the mortgage amount from the gross sale price before
figuring gain on the sale.
-
If you elect installment
treatment on a sale to a relative (spouse, child, grandchild, parent,
grandparent, sibling) and the relative resells the property within two
years of the original sale date, you'll owe tax on the entire remaining
unpaid balance the year the relative sells the property.
-
If you sell stock or other
securities on an established exchange, you have to pay tax for the year in
which you make the trade, even if the settlement date falls in a later tax
year.
Example: In 1999, you
buy a rental duplex for $50,000. Over the next eight years, you
Depreciate
$7,180. In 2008, you sell it for $100,000, payable in five installments of
$20,000 plus 9% interest on the unpaid balance. Your gain is $50,000, or
50% of the sale price. Each $20,000 installment includes $10,000 of
taxable gain. You'll "recapture" your $7,180 in depreciation in
2007. And you'll pay tax at ordinary income rates on the 9% interest as
you earn it.
Report installment sale income
on
Form 6252, then carry it forward to
Schedule D. For more
information, see
IRS
Publication 537, "Installment Sales."
Insulin Treatment
Deductible Medical
Expense subject to the 7.5% floor.
Interest
Interest you earn on bank deposits, bonds, loans, and even tax refunds is generally
taxable in the year you receive the interest. (Interest on
Municipal Bonds is
generally tax-free.) Original issue discount
and zero-coupon bond interest are taxable in the year accreted or accrues.
See Original issue discount and Zero-coupon bonds.
Interest you pay on a variety of
loans may be deductible depending on the source or the purpose of the loan:
-
Interest on up to $100,000 of
Home Equity Interest
may deductible on
Schedule A.
-
Interest you pay to buy or
carry investment property, including stocks, bonds, mutual funds, and
other securities (margin interest), is deductible as
Investment Interest.
-
Interest you pay on behalf of
your trade or business is deductible as a
Business Expense on
Schedule C,
Form 1065,
or your corporate return.
-
Interest you pay to buy or
carry tax-exempt securities, single-premium life insurance, endowment, or
annuity contracts, is nondeductible.
-
Prepaid interest isn't
deductible until the year the interest is actually due. You can't prepay a
year's worth of mortgage interest, for example, to claim a higher interest
deduction in a year with unusually high income.
-
There's no deduction for
credit report fees, service charges, or account fees you pay to secure a
loan. However, you can
include these in the Basis of
whatever asset you buy with the borrowed funds.
Inventory
Inventory is property you manufacture or buy for later resale in the course of your
trade or business. Gain you earn from selling inventory is taxed as ordinary
income, not capital gain.
Investment Expenses
Investment expenses you pay to
generate taxable income are deductible up to net investment income subject
to the 2% floor on
Miscellaneous Itemized
Deductions. Deductible expenses
include:
-
Investment Interest you pay on an
unlimited amount of debt used to buy or carry investment property,
including stocks, bonds, mutual funds, and other securities
Commissions you pay to buy and
sell investments aren't deductible. Instead, include them in your
Basis for figuring
Capital Gain or loss when
you sell. However, if you pay your broker or
investment manager an asset management fee that includes commissions on
investment trades, you can deduct the fee the year you pay.
There's no deduction for costs
you pay to manage tax-exempt securities or
Passive Activities. And there's no deduction for the cost of
investment seminars or the Travel costs for shareholder meetings.
Report investment expenses on
Schedule A. For more information, see
IRS
Publication 550, "Investment Income and Expenses."
Investment Interest
Investment interest you pay to
finance most taxable investments is deductible, up to your "net
investment income." If your investment interest exceeds your net investment
income--a real possibility in flat or declining markets--you can carry
forward the excess against future investment income. Here are the rules:
-
"Investment income" includes
gross income from property held for investment, such as interest,
dividends, royalties, and annuities. It doesn't include
Capital Gains
unless you choose to treat them as investment income; however, if you do
so, you'll have to pay tax at ordinary income rates rather than
preferential capital gains rates, on those gains. Investment income also
does not include Passive Activity income.
Example:
In 2007, your adjusted gross income is $60,000. Your miscellaneous
itemized deductions include $1,000 for investment newsletters and other
investment expenses, $600 for tax preparation, and $400 in employee
business expenses. Your deductible investment expenses are just $800
($2,000 in miscellaneous itemized deductions minus 2% of adjusted gross
income, or $1,200).
-
You have to show that you
actually use your investment debt to buy or hold taxable investments. You
can't just borrow against your investments to finance personal expenses
and deduct the interest, the way you can with most home equity interest.
Safeguard your investment interest deduction by keeping separate accounts
for investment borrowing. Don't use funds from your investment accounts
for personal or business expenses.
Calculate your investment
interest deduction on
Form
4952, then carry the total to
Schedule A.
Investment Management Fees
Investment management fees
are generally a deductible Investment Expense,
up to net investment income, subject to the 2% floor on
Miscellaneous
Itemized Deductions.
Fees you pay to manage
Individual Retirement Account
assets are not deductible because they don't offset
taxable income.
Investment Newsletters
(see
Subscriptions)
Involuntary Conversion
Involuntary conversion is the loss or destruction of property
through casualty, theft, seizure, condemnation, or sale under threat of
condemnation. You'll be treated as selling the property at a price equal to
whatever proceeds (including insurance) you receive. This can trigger tax on
Capital Gain if your
proceeds are more than your adjusted Basis in the property.
However, you can postpone tax if you replace the property within a specified
time.
IRA
(See Individual Retirement
Account)
IRA Custodial Fees
IRA account fees are a
Miscellaneous
Itemized Deduction subject to the 2% floor. You have to pay the fee
yourself, out of your own pocket; you can't claim the deduction for fees you
pay directly out of your account.
Itemized Deductions
Itemized deductions are the classic writeoffs most of us think of as "tax deductions." These include:
Itemized deductions grow more
valuable as your tax increases. If you're in the 15% bracket, every dollar
you deduct cuts your tax by 15 cents. If you're in the 35% bracket, that
same dollar deduction cuts your tax by 35 cents.
The starting point for every
taxpayer is the standard deduction: $5,450 for single filers; $8,000 for
heads of households; $10,900 for joint filers; and $5,450 for married
couples filing separately (2008). If your actual itemized deductions are
higher than the standard deduction, take your itemized total; if actual
deductions are lower, take the standard deduction. (Married couples filing
separately must both itemize or both take the standard deduction; you can't
have it both ways.)
Standard deductions are high
enough that less than one out of three taxpayers itemize deductions. There's
no magic to using them other than knowing what's out there. This Dictionary
gives you the most complete, user-friendly list of deductions available.
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